I have already fitted the bodice prior to taking photos - here I have cut out the fashon fabric. I am making a side-opening bodice.

Place bodice on the interlining, face side up.

Cut around the edges. Silk and velvets should be pinned to hold.

Front bodice cut out with interlining.

Place pins one inch in from the outside edge, especially if using the overlocker.

All pinned and ready to sew together.

Overlocking the two pieces of fabric together.

Front bodice overlocked together - it is now interlined.

Do the same to the back piece.

Mark in 1.5cm along the side back opening edge. Mark with chalk pencil.

Pin piping along chalk line so that the sewing line on the piping matches up with the chalk line. Make sure the piping is on the inside.
¦eginner sewers should handstitch with large stitches the piping after pinning.

Before sewing the piping, locate your zipper foot.

Sew on the piping with a small stitch. Before turning the piped edge as the picture shows, zigzag the piping edge to the base fabric. I have used a commercial piping here that is not very wide. After zigzagging, turn the edge and sew a channel for the piping to go through.

Measure where you'll make your lacing holes with a chalk pencil.

I used my punch to make the holes because I have sore wrists. I recommend that you use an awl to make your holes, and steadily make them larger with a skewer and then a knitting needle. If yo can avoid breaking or cutting the fabric (only enlarging a hole) your garment will be stronger and will not tear.

Finished edge with punched holes.

Pushing plastic boning into the casing. Make sure that the boning does not go into the seam allowance.

Fully boned front bodice. Iron the boned fabric with a hot steam iron to take any bends out.

Sew the shoulder seams together.

Iron the seam apart.

Cut out shoulder wings. Overlock them together on the outside curved edge (left) then turn them through and iron the seam flat to neaten (right).

Place the shoulder wing on the fashion fabric side of the bodice shoulder. Sew them to the bodice, about 1cm in from the edge to hold.

Cut out another front and back bodice out of the interlining fabric and sew the bone casing where pattern instructs.

Insert boning and then iron flat with a hot steam iron.

Place boned lining against the interlined bodice, right sides together.

Make sure the piping is still facing inwards. Match up edges carefully.

Be very sure that boning does NOT extend into the seam allowance. Pin to prevent it shifting.

Make sure wings are facing the right way.

Pin whole garment together carefully. I recommend that the pin head is on the outside of the garment and that you pin as the picture shows.
I have piped the neckline before pinning.

Sew the neckline together and then pull through.

Snip the inside corner of the bodice neckline so it sits smoothly.

Once turned through pin the edge to hold.

 

 

 

more to come.................!

sleeve to make on Aylwen's loose gown: