These are some quick photos of some
1885 ball gowns Aylwen has just finished. Edges were piped with
satin piping and the front bodices close with concealed hook and
eyes.
Usually
the only late Victorian garments that were lined were coats and
riding habit bodices. Everything else wasinterlined,
small changes in body type could be adjusted for in the wider
underarm seam. Early bustle skirts had a wide false chintz hem
or a 10-12" crinoline(buckram) facing. Late bustle and natural
form skirts usually had narrower and stiffer false hems and a
knife pleated ruffle at the bottom. When you cut your skirt make
sure that the straight of grain goes to the front of the skirt
panel - not down the middle of the skirt- it does make a difference
on how the skirt falls.
before bustling the skirt
bustled, still need to pull in the sides
This skirt needs a grand bustle and petticoat underneath still.
>
Black cotton tape sewn under bustled skirt to attach the bustle
to and provide support. I am now sewing the black tape to itself
where it crosses over.
Close-up of tapes hand sewn into waistband and view of netting.
I sewed the netting onto the skirt before it was gathered. I didn't
have any tulle to hand so used some bridal netting I had left over
from another dress. Because this netting was quite light I used
two thicknesses.
I did 3 rows of gathering stitches by hand, one row was outside
the seam line, and all rows were left in place upon completion.
>
bodice front - again not lined, just pinned in place. Sleeves will
be next.
bodice sewn together but not yet lined - back view. Hope it will
look this good on me! :o))
I've backed the sleeve because my fabric was too lightweight to
puff.
just added one sleeve.
Hook and Eye tape is a fantastic invention!
front view
Showing dress over a grand bustle
front bodice, black piped edges, closed at the front with concealed
hook and eyes.
Click
Here to see Estimated Costs
to make this Gown
Laughing Moon Victorian Corset Pattern - Silverado - showing
images of the muslin copy
gussets viwed from wrong side of fabric
two sides before adding boning channels
pinned to dummy - will turn this around soon
I found these instructions recently, and
once the weather cools down a bit will give them a try. I'll be
using this pdf
article on knitting in the 19th century to guide me.
Civil War Era
MUFFATEES
Godey's Feb. 1865 "MUFFATEES. — The following will be
found a good receipt for muffatees for winter wear. The patterns
forming frill and wreath:—
Cast on 72 stitches on each of three needles in the colored wool,
5 skeins of colored are required, and 1/2 ounce of white. Needles
No. 17. W. and c. stand for “white and colored.” 1st
row. Plain, c. 2d, 3d, and 4th. 6 plain, 6 pearl, all round. c.
5th to 11th. 6 plain, 6 pearl, w. 12th. 2 together, all round,
w. 13th. 2 together, 1 plain, all round, w. 14th. Wool forward,
2 together, w. 15th. Plain, w. 16th. Plain, c. 17th and 18th.
Pearled, c. 19th. Plain, c. 20th to 23d. Plain, w. 24th. 3 stitches,
w., 3 c. all round. 25th. Knit 4 stitches, w., at the beginning
of the round, then 3 c., 3 w. all round. 26th. Knit 1 stitch c.,
4 w., then 3 c., 3 w. 27th. Plain, w., all round. 28th. Plain,
c. 29th. Plain, w. 30th, 31st, 32d. Are 24th, 25th, 26th reversed.
33d to 36th. Plain, w. 37th. Plain, c 38th and 39th. Pearled,
c. 40th; Plain, c. 41st. Plain, w. 42d t 58th. Knit 2, pearl 2
all round, w. 59th. Plain, c. 60th and 61st. Pearled, c. 62d.
Cast off, c. NB. The frill is the beginning the rows 24, 25, 26,
on the leaves in the wreath. The top part ribbed can, of course,
be made longer or shorter according to fancy: it looks best with
the number of rows in the receipt."
I've just seen this lovely cranberry wool mantle with white soutash
on ebay
and have fallen in love! Maybe this will be my winter project this
year!
1885
Victorian bustle gown
